1. the emulsifier remains olive oil based but has been changed from ‘cetearyl olivate/sorbitan olivate’ to ‘sodium olivoil glutamate’
Sodium OLIVOIL Glutamate is a non-ethoxylated, vegetal derived surfactant that combines the unique fatty acid profile of olive oil with the characteristic affinity of glutamic acid toward the skin surface.
The quest for PEG-free emulsifiers led to the creation of new classes of base ingredients, one of which is this skin-friendly and environmentally-friendly Sodium OLIVOIL Glutamate.
This new emulsifier structure provides:
- high skin compatibility, suitable for sensitive skin as well as babies or children’s skin
- protecting, soothing and restoring functionality
- maximum biodegradability according to the CEE regulation N.82/242 OECD Method
As the whole concept of creating a more efficient equilibrium between ones skin and ones body has increased in popularity, we are seeing an increased success with ingredients of natural origin, embracing the concepts of respect for your skin, or skin friendly emulsifiers.
This is due to 2 main aspects:
- The need for developing formulas as much as possible compatible with the physiology of skin and its annexes, without any adverse effect or allergic potential.
- The growing confidence of consumers in the beneficial properties provided by complex mixtures of natural ingredients.
2. the stabilising agent ‘dehydroxanthan gum’ has been changed to ‘Xanthan Gum (and) Lecithin (and) Sclerotium Gum (and) Pullulan)’
Patented optimised combination of phospholipids and polysaccharides, this is a natural stabiliser gelling agent that leaves an amazing silicone-like skin feel.
It is a preservative-free, ecofriendly, foolproof gelling agent with amazing silicone-like skin feel & texture and 100% natural origin. Also, serves as a thickener, co-emulsifier, stabilizer, suspending agent and skin feel enhancer. This green processed ingredient shows high compatibility with electrolytes.
This senso-active functional ingredient improves active ingredient efficacy and offers skin hydration for true active textures. It provides softness properties demonstrating highly attractive sensory identity. It brings hydration for a 100% active base and reinforces the protective barrier which decreases TEWL and therefore helps keep the skin moisturized.
3. we have added ‘nicotinamide’ (vitamin B3)
Nicotinamide, also known as niacinamide, is a form of vitamin B3 that offers numerous benefits for skin health.
Key Benefits of Nicotinamide for Skin
- Enhances Skin Barrier Function. Nicotinamide helps build keratin, a protein essential for maintaining skin health. It strengthens the skin's lipid barrier, which locks in moisture and protects against environmental irritants, making it beneficial for all skin types, particularly those with conditions like eczema and rosacea
- Reduces Inflammation. This ingredient is known for its anti-inflammatory properties, which can help calm redness and irritation associated with acne, rosacea, and other inflammatory skin conditions. By reducing inflammation, nicotinamide can improve overall skin tone and texture
- Minimizes Pore Appearance. While it does not physically reduce pore size, nicotinamide can help minimize their appearance by keeping the skin smooth and regulating oil production, which prevents clogged pores and breakouts
- Treats Acne. Nicotinamide has been shown to be effective in treating acne vulgaris. Clinical studies indicate that topical nicotinamide gel can be as effective as traditional topical antibiotics in reducing acne lesions. Additionally, it decreases sebum production, which contributes to acne development.
- Addresses Hyperpigmentation. Research suggests that formulations containing 5% nicotinamide can lighten dark spots and improve skin tone over time. This effect is attributed to increased collagen production and improved skin texture
- Protects Against Sun Damage. Nicotinamide enhances the skin's ability to repair DNA damage caused by UV exposure and may reduce the risk of certain types of skin cancer in high-risk individuals. However, it should not be used as a substitute for sunscreen
- Reduces Fine Lines and Wrinkles. Topical application of nicotinamide has been linked to improvements in fine lines and wrinkles due to its ability to stimulate collagen production and improve skin elasticity. Studies have reported significant improvements in signs of aging after consistent use over several weeks.
- Increases Hydration. Nicotinamide helps reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL), thereby increasing hydration levels in the upper layers of the skin. This makes it particularly beneficial for dry or dehydrated skin types
